How Accessories Became Lesbian Signals

Lez Accessorise: How Accessories Became Lesbian Signals

“What does a lesbian look like?” is a question that has circulated through queer spaces for decades — and it’s one that’s often answered not by biology or identity, but by cultural signals woven into clothing and accessories.

In her insightful Dressing Dykes piece, Eleanor Medhurst explores how seemingly simple items like carabiners and rings have operated as subtle (and sometimes overt) markers of lesbian identity throughout history.

When we think of lesbian fashion stereotypes — like sensible footwear or plaid shirts — they’re often dismissed as cliché. But these “stereotypes” actually play a deeper role: they help people signal their identity to others in a community that’s historically been hidden or marginalized. Clothes and accessories can be tools of connection, a way to say “I see you” without uttering a word.

The Rise of the Carabiner as a Lesbian Signal

One of the strongest examples Medhurst highlights is the carabiner key ring — that practical metal clip many lesbians wear attached to a belt loop or bag. While carabiners might seem like a purely utilitarian object, they’ve become associated with lesbian style because of their history and visibility.

From blue-collar butch women using them for practical reasons in the mid-20th century to their popularization in later queer fashion circles, carabiners have come to function as a recognizable yet discreet queer signal.

Carabiners became incorporated into lesbian culture for a few reasons:

Practicality: They were originally worn for functional purposes — holding keys, tools, or gear — in environments where practicality mattered.

Visibility within the community: In spaces and times when lesbians were forced to identify each other subtly, the carabiner acted as a recognizable marker among those “in the know.”

Symbolic reclamation: Designers and queer makers later embraced the carabiner’s cultural meaning. For example, the Lez Bag uses carabiner clasps not just for utility, but as a deliberate nod to queer iconography — infusing a simple bag with lesbian signification.

Yet Medhurst doesn’t romanticize carabiners as a perfect signal. Mainstream fashion has appropriated them, and now many people wear them who are not queer. But even this trend — that a once-subtle lesbian marker becomes popular — tells us something important about how queer aesthetics circulate in culture.

Rings: From Thumb Rings to Pinky Symbols

Alongside carabiners, rings have also carried meaning in lesbian communities — but in more varied and subtle ways. Medhurst’s article traces several types of ring symbolism:

Thumb rings have been described as a “subtle yet ubiquitous symbol for queer women.” These rings sit between traditional notions of feminine and masculine jewelry: casual, practical, and open to interpretation — perfect for signaling to others without overt declaration. They show up repeatedly in images of queer women and on platforms like TikTok, where trends emerge around thumb rings as identity markers.

Pinky rings have a longer historical lineage. In British lesbian fashion between 1918 and 1939, some lesbians wore pinky rings as deliberate markers of identity — two unrelated women reported using them as lesbian symbols for decades. This shows how objects can evolve from personal choice into shared cultural language.

But it’s also clear that not all lesbian communities used the same signals. Medhurst notes that some women in history said there were no symbols at all for lesbians — especially in contexts where gender, class, or social norms shaped how women presented themselves. Symbols could be classed, localized, or simply absent depending on the person and place.

Interestingly, even the absence of rings could function as a sign of lesbian possibility. In certain historical contexts, unmarried women who didn’t wear marriage rings could be read (rightly or wrongly) as potential lesbians. Meanwhile, lesbians in covert relationships sometimes used simple wedding-type bands to signify their unions in ways only understood by insiders.

Why Signals Matter

At its core, Medhurst’s article is about visibility, community, and the negotiation between concealment and celebration. Lesbian identities have long existed in social environments that are repressive or ignorant, where overt declarations of queerness could be dangerous. To find each other, understand each other, and build community, lesbians developed and adopted clothing signals that communicate without speaking.

These signals — whether a carabiner clinking at a belt loop or a ring glinting on a finger — are more than just fashion. They’re cultural markers of belonging, resilience, and self-recognition. They honor histories of queer connection and remind us that sometimes what we wear is how we find each other.

Source: https://dressingdykes.com/2021/05/14/lez-accessorise/